The Tour de France, the most prestigious cycling event in the world, is nearing its end. But on the other side of the globe, in the heart of the Midwest, a different kind of cycling adventure is just beginning: RAGBRAI, or Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa.
RAGBRAI is the world’s oldest and largest multi-day bike tour, and it started as a simple idea. In 1973, two journalists from the Des Moines Register newspaper decided to ride their bikes across Iowa and write stories about the people they met along the way.
They invited anyone who wanted to join them, and 114 people completed the first weeklong journey across the state.
The riders and the locals enjoyed the experience so much that they asked the newspaper to make it an annual event. Now, 50 years later, RAGBRAI attracts over 30,000 people from all over the world who want to experience the charm and hospitality of Iowa.
“RAGBRAI is for everyone, whether you’re a serious cyclist or a casual rider,” says RAGBRAI Event Director Matt Phippen. “It’s not a race; it’s a community. You can ride at your own pace and enjoy the scenery, the food, the music, and the people.”
Phippen has been riding RAGBRAI since 1998 and became the event director in 2022. He is passionate about making RAGBRAI’s 50th anniversary a memorable one.
“We have some amazing things planned for this year,” Phippen says. “For the first time ever, we will have two highways closed to traffic for our riders. We also have some great bands lined up, like Bush. And we have seen a lot of riders who haven’t done RAGBRAI in a while come back for this special occasion.”
The 2023 RAGBRAI route
Every year, RAGBRAI changes its route to showcase different towns and regions of Iowa. This year, the route starts in Sioux City in western Iowa and ends in Davenport in eastern Iowa:
Sioux City → Storm Lake → Carrol → Ames → Des Moines → Tama Toledo → Coralville → Davenport
The daily distance ranges from 50 to 88 miles and each day involves about 2,000 feet of elevation gain. But RAGBRAI is not about speed or performance; it’s about fun and friendship. That’s what YouTuber and six-time RAGBRAI rider Ryan Van Duzer of Boulder, Colorado believes.
“The best way to do RAGBRAI is to take your time and enjoy everything,” Van Duzer says. “The towns are amazing; they go all out to welcome us and show us their Iowa pride. They have pancake breakfasts, Slip ‘N Slides, backyard ponds, you name it. It’s like a county fair on bikes.”
At the end of each day, riders set up their own campsites. Some carry their own gear on their bikes, while others use the sag service provided by RAGBRAI, which transports their equipment to the next town. It’s a cozy night under the stars with thousands of your new friends.
Six-time RAGBRAI rider Ryan Van Duzer
RAGBRAI is Iowa’s biggest tourism event, drawing people from all 50 states and 20 countries. It also attracts some famous names in the cycling world who are curious about this unique phenomenon.
One of them is Marley Blonsky, who founded All Bodies on Bikes, an organization that promotes size-inclusivity in cycling. This will be her first time doing RAGBRAI.
“I’m so excited and nervous to do RAGBRAI this week,” Blonsky says. “From what I’ve seen and heard, RAGBRAI is exactly what All Bodies on Bikes is all about; I can’t wait to join this amazing rolling circus!”
Even though RAGBRAI’s 50th anniversary is just starting, Phippen is already thinking ahead.
“We are always planning for the next RAGBRAIs; we have to work with the Department of Transportation and the towns well in advance,” Phippen says. “But I’m also very excited to celebrate this milestone with everyone this year. There’s nothing like RAGBRAI; it’s the best week of the year.”
When riders reach Davenport on July 29, they will be exhausted, sunburnt, and sore from laughing and smiling all week long. As they head back to their normal lives, they will start counting down the days until RAGBRAI 2024, Iowa’s county fair on two wheels.


